Lei Wainohu - Apr 06, 2024
The Ultimate Guide to Vitamin C Derivatives in Skincare
While pure Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is incredibly effective in skin care, it has some drawbacks. Ascorbic acid requires a very low pH to remain stable and effective, which can be irritating to the skin. Additionally, it oxidizes quickly, losing its potency over time. To address these issues, scientists have developed Vitamin C derivatives. These modified forms of Vitamin C offer similar benefits but are more stable and gentler on the skin, making them suitable for a wider range of applications and skin types.
- Different Types of Vitamin C Derivatives and Their Benefits.
- How Vitamin C Derivatives Work to Release Ascorbic Acid
- Different Types of Vitamin C Derivatives and Their Benefits.
- The Importance of pH Levels
- Does a Higher Concentration of Vitamin C Really Matter?
- Why We Chose Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C Phosphate) in Our Formulation
Different Types of Vitamin C Derivatives and Their Benefits
There are several Vitamin C derivatives used in skincare formulations, each with unique properties and benefits. Here's a comparison of some popular derivatives:
| Vitamin C Derivative | Ideal pH | Stability | Key Benefits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ascorbic Acid | Low (≤ 3.5) | Unstable | Highly effective, brightening, antioxidant |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) | Neutral (6-7) | Stable | Gentle, brightening, stimulates collagen, antioxidant |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) | Slightly acidic to neutral (5-7) | Stable | Hydrating, suitable for sensitive skin, brightening |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside | Neutral (5-7) | Stable | Gradual release, gentle, brightening |
| Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) | Broad range | Highly stable | Deep penetration, potent antioxidant, suitable for all skin types |
| Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Slightly acidic (4-5) | Stable | Brightening, reduces hyperpigmentation, antioxidant |
How Vitamin C Derivatives Work to Release Ascorbic Acid
Vitamin C derivatives are specially formulated to provide the benefits of ascorbic acid while addressing some of its drawbacks, such as instability and potential for irritation. These derivatives are designed to be more stable and less irritating, making them suitable for a wider range of skin types and formulations.
The way Vitamin C derivatives work is through a conversion process that occurs once they are absorbed into the skin. Upon absorption, these derivatives undergo enzymatic or chemical reactions that release ascorbic acid, the active form of Vitamin C. This process is triggered by enzymes naturally present in the skin, such as phosphatases and esterases, which break down the derivatives into ascorbic acid.
This gradual and controlled release of ascorbic acid ensures that the skin receives a steady supply of this potent antioxidant. It helps to neutralize free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and brighten the complexion, all while minimizing the risk of irritation. By using Vitamin C derivatives, skincare formulations can provide effective antioxidant protection and anti-aging benefits with improved stability and tolerability.
The Importance of pH Levels
One of the critical factors in the effectiveness of Vitamin C is the pH level at which it operates. Ascorbic acid requires a pH of around 3.5 or lower to be effective, which can be too acidic for some skin types, leading to irritation. In contrast, many Vitamin C derivatives are stable at a higher pH, making them less irritating and more suitable for sensitive skin. For example, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is stable at a neutral pH (around 6-7), while Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) works well at a slightly acidic to neutral pH (5-7)
Does a Higher Concentration of Vitamin C Really Matter?
Higher concentrations of Vitamin C can provide more potent benefits, but they also come with an increased risk of irritation. Here are some key points to consider:
Increased Efficacy: Higher concentrations can lead to more noticeable results, including improved brightness, reduced hyperpigmentation, and enhanced collagen production.
Increased Irritation: High concentrations, especially of ascorbic acid, can cause skin irritation, redness, and sensitivity.
Formulation Challenges: Stabilizing high concentrations can be difficult, affecting the product's shelf life and efficacy.
Starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing it can help achieve desired results with minimal irritation. Derivatives like SAP offer a balance of efficacy and gentleness, making them suitable even at moderate concentrations.
Why We Chose Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C Phosphate) in Our Vitamin C Serum Formulation
In our skincare formulations, we have chosen to use Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (aslo known as Vitamin C Phosphate) over other derivatives. Here’s why:
Stability: Vitamin C Phosphate is highly stable, ensuring that our products maintain their potency over time.
Gentleness: Vitamin C Phosphate is less irritating compared to ascorbic acid, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Multifunctional Benefits: Vitamin C Phosphate not only provides strong antioxidant protection and stimulates collagen production but also has antimicrobial properties, which can benefit acne-prone skin.
By choosing Vitamin C Phosphate, we ensure that our products deliver the powerful benefits of Vitamin C while remaining gentle and effective for all skin types.
Vitamin C derivatives offer a versatile and effective way to incorporate this powerhouse ingredient into skincare routines. By understanding the different types of derivatives and their benefits, you can choose the right products for your skin type and concerns. At LEITIN Skincare, we are committed to using the best ingredients, like Vitamin C Phosphate, to provide you with products that enhance your skin's health and beauty.
To learn more about what is in our Halo Vitamin C Serum view details below.